There are a slew of knots out there but knowing a few good
ones is enough. The Little Red Book of
Fishing Knots is good and can be had from Amazon for $4.96: http://www.amazon.com/The-Little-Fishing-Knot-Book/dp/0969873409.
Alternatively, Google: fishing knots in diagrams, or, fishing knot pdf, and you
will be shown. Alternatively, look at page 76 in my Maximum Salmon, also at Amazon: https://www.amazon.ca/Maximum-Salmon-Fishing-Alaska-California/dp/1550174037.
Reel
knot
– tie a simple overhand knot in the tag end of the line, backing or other line
that will be laid down on the reel first. Thread the line around the reel drum
and tie another overhand knot, this time around the line itself. Pull and,
voila, a sound simple knot that will not come apart. And should a big chinook
spool you, wind the ball-bearing snap from another rod around the reel seat a
couple of times above the reel and clip the clip and assign the first rod to
the sea and continue playing the fish from the second rod, as once happened to
me.
Palomar –
this simple strong knot is best used for lures tied directly to the mainline
for use in either salt- or fresh-water or for end snaps on the mainline. Form a
loop in the mainline and push it through the metal loop or swivel on the item. Form
a loop from the line through the swivel and tie an overhand knot, then slip the
loop around the item being tied to, and tighten. A good strong knot with great
breaking strength because the knot itself does not become a breaking point.
Figure
eight knot – perhaps the most useful knot in all of fishing. I
stopped using surgeon’s knots one day when, on five successive casts, I landed
the fly in the bush on the other side of the river, on the first cast, and yanking
simply broke the knot at the flyline, this on a stepped down and thus three
different test mono leader constructed on the spot with surgeon’s knots. After
half an hour and lots of expletives, I decided never to use a surgeon knot
again. I had done the same earlier in my fishing with Blood Knots.
As a figure eight knot results in a loop, you can use
it anytime you need one – stepping down leader; martingale; alternative to a
Palomar. Make a loop in the tag end line, wrap it around your first two
fingers, hold the line with your thumb of the same hand, take the line off your
two fingers with the other hand, twist it in a circle and push the loop from
your other hand, through the second loop. As you tighten you will see the
figure eight form in the line and thus know it has been done correctly, before
tightening all the way.
Martingale –
often used in fly fishing or anywhere you may have to join two different types/weights
of line, or add leader. Form a figure eight knot in each of the tag ends, then snip
the tag end of each. The upper knot tag end should be snipped right to the knot
as you will catch line on the knot while casting, something that is a pain
because you have to bring in the entire mess – which if your fly/lure is
rotating becomes a total mess and pain – to lift the caught line off. This is
because the knot faces ‘up’ line. The knot on the down side of the knot seldom
catches line because it is not facing the line.
Take the upper loop, push it through the loop on the
lower section of line, pass the tag end of the lower piece of line through the
upper loop and pull that line all the way through, the loop on loop connection
is a Martingale. It is important to always push the upper loop through the
lower loop first, as if you don’t you will find that sometimes after pulling the
entire lower line through and tossing it into the water that you have just untied
the second piece of line and just lost it.
Clinch
Knot – the most common fly fishing knot for tying a fly on
the tag end of the leader. The alternative is a loop knot. Slip the tag end
through the eye on the fly, take the tag end around and, if there is room, slip
the tag end of the line through the fly’s eye once again, which makes it twice as
strong. (Sometimes, when you have used too much head cement on the eye, it gets
too clogged to push the leader through again).
Wind the tag end around the standing line 7 or 8
times, alternatively, twist the fly around in 7 to 8 circles, then the tag end
goes through the small opening of line near the eye. Tighten and you have a
Clinch Knot. Even better, before tightening, bring the tag end back through the
loop formed by putting the tag end through the small opening, and you have an Improved
Clinch. Even better, as you tighten, stop and pull the tag end. This results in
an improved clinch, that has a loop between it and the fly eye. The purpose is
to give the fly more action as it can freely move because the knot is not
tightened onto the eye but the line itself.
Guides
Wrap/Snelled Hook Knot – used when you are making up rigs
of two hooks with six feet of leader, either singles or treble first and
trailing single, commonly used for squirts, hootchies and teaser-head bait rigs
in salt water trolling. Pass the tag end
through the hook eye, form a loop, and hold the loop and tag end along the
shank with one hand, tag end extended an inch from the bend.
Take the loop in your second hand and wrap it around
the held shank, loop and tag end at least six times, then hold the loop in your
first hand. Pull the tag end with your second hand and a knot lays down neatly
against the shank. The tag end is left – at least six inches – to tie the
trailing hook the same way. The knot is also known as a sliding knot as you can
slide the knot up and down the hook shank, thus shortening the distance between
the two hooks, or the distance the trailing single will extend from the
lure/bait’s trailing end.
Nail
Knot/Nailless Nail Knot – commonly used to tie a loop in the
end of a fly line. Form a loop in the flyline tag end, and form a loop of
leader along the flyline loop, as you did in the Snelled Knot above. Again the
tag end of the leader extends an inch beyond the flyline loop. Wrap the loop
around the flyline loop six to eight times, secure the loop and pull the tag
end. This lays down a nice compact knot around the flyline loop. Snip the knot
on the upside as close to the knot as possible, to avoid line catching on it
during casting. Finish with head cement, nail polish, or other adhesive, that
covers the upper tag end.
There are many other knots you can use, for example,
the Allbrite, but the above cover most situations you will run into.