Fly lines need cleaning for several different reasons:
use in saltwater, brackish water, and extended use in freshwater, particularly
with lots of suspended solids or algae. You will find that a dirty line ceases
to cast as far, is more difficult to pick off the water and sticks to rod line
guides on the cast. It can stick to your hands as well, and if you are managing
several loops of stripped-in line in your line hand, the bottom of the loops is
in the water, and it will stick to that water, too. Clean your fly line more often
if used in brackish water, the worst combination of fresh- and salt-water,
typically in estuaries.
All ‘dirt’ problems lead to reduced casting distance;
this can be as much as 20 feet, which for the average caster can be 33- to 50-%
of casting distance. Dirty lines also take more oomph to cast all day, to
compensate for their unwillingness to slickly rocket out to land within a foot
of where you aim to cast the fly.
Always have a target in mind, and over the years, you
will become amazingly accurate, even with other problems in your casting. Such
accuracy is critical when aiming for a rising fish, and when you are laying a
fly just off vegetation providing cover, typically on the far side of a river.
If your cast is a foot long, a tug of war ensues, with
your fly getting broken off if it is stuck on vegetation. The most important
thing to do in a long cast, is to yank the line back asap, before the fly has
gotten settled in green or wound around twigs. But keep on trying, because you
will never become accurate, unless you try to be accurate for a long time. Accept
that you will lose a few flies – the price of becoming more accurate, and
catching more fish.
Once a new line has worked through its best, new days –
I don’t clean a line until it is through this early period – put the reel with
its line in a bowl of warm water after every fish. Use a small amount of dish
soap, water just covering the reel. Don’t use too much as soap can degrade the
surface of our expensive fly lines. Leave the reel over night and the next day
let it dry on a cloth towel, rather than a paper towel. Then wipe the reel with
the towel.
Check your line for cracking, or patches where the
coating has come away from the braided cord on the inside. If your line is
cracked, chances are that it is sinking, even if it is a full float line,
because it is full of water. Patches of missing coating are usually from
fishing in weather below zero, and water forming ice on lines and guides. When
the line gets stuck, a patch of ka-ching fly line breaks away, the beginning of
the end for the fly line. Don’t just keep using it, as the ‘hinging’ of a patch
of lower density line between two lengths of higher density line will ruin many
casts, driving you bonkers. Any fly line surface cracked along its length
should be replaced.
I would say that not buying new fly lines soon enough
is the number one problem that fly anglers face with casting distance,
regardless of level of acquired casting skill. As fly lines cost $50 - $100
each, replacing them hurts. On the other hand, not casting properly, getting
the distance and accuracy that comes with casting practice, is a complete waste
of your time.
So, replace fly lines sooner rather than later. And
keep the old one for awhile. I have changed only to find that the new line
caught fewer fish because the old, waterlogged line was putting the fly in the
fish zone, while the new line put the fly above the fish zone. This happens
more frequently in beach and estuary fishing for incoming salmon, in salt or brackish
water.
Most fly lines come with a small bottle of fly line
cleaner, or slick. These are applied after your gentle cleaning step. Cut a two-inch
square of cloth fabric from an old shirt that has been put in the cleaning-use
pile in your house. Pick something that won’t lose particles onto the line
surface, the equivalent of putting dirt back on a cleaned line. Similarly, don’t
use paper towel as these ‘bleed’ paper particles back onto the line as you draw
it through.
Keep a poster rolled up for cleaning purpose, then
roll it out, face down on the floor so that you aren’t stripping line onto a
dirty floor. Saturate your square of fabric with cleaner/slick, then with the
drag on your reel almost fully off (don’t fully eliminate it or the first time
through, dragging line off the reel, you will end up with line over-runs on
your reel, and having to sort that out with hands covered with slick ‘grease’),
fold the fabric around the fly line, and strip it smoothly through, reel on a
clean surface below.
Prior to using a fly line or after completely cleaning
the line, mark the end of the ‘head’ on the line, where the thicker head ends
in slimmer running line. Most manufacturers change colours between head and
running line these days, so spotting the change is easier than in the olden
days.
Take a black, or other contrasting colour, magic marker,
and mark two inches of transition so that you will know the end of the head,
something that comes in very handy when casting. You simply put the marked line
within the top rod guides and the line will not hinge, resulting in longer, more
accurate casts. Also, strip another 20 feet and mark that spot with magic
marker as well. That is for the lengthy casters who want to reach fish that are
further away. It also indicates proximity to the end of the fly line where it
contacts the running line, something every fly fisher wants to know, as once
that expensive line completely leaves the rod on a long run, we become worried
of losing the fly line.
Returning to the cleaning stage, strip the line – head
and twenty feet to the running-line mark – to one side of the clean poster
paper. Saturate the fabric square once again, taking the fabric in your
opposite hand, and strip the line back through the fabric, placing the pile on
the other side of the poster paper. Change position of the fabric stripping
point frequently, as you will find the gunk on the line gets stripped onto the
fabric, and you want to present cleaner fabric to the fly line surface.
Finally, take the saturated fabric in your opposite
hand, and bring the line through the line slick for a third time, making a pile
on the side of the stripping hand. Go wash your sticky hands, let the line dry
over night and put the fabric in the garbage. The reason for putting the pile
on the stripping hand side is that with as much as 80 of line/leader stripped onto the
poster, you can tangle line very easily if the next strip results in one pile
mixing with the other pile.
The next day, with a new two-inch square of fabric,
fold it over the line and strip the pile through, three times, each time making
a pile on the opposite side of the poster. Frequently change the fabric square
position so that fly line is moving through clean fabric. Once done, you will
find that the fly line has picked up a lot of static stuck particles of gunk, and
the fabric will have dirty streaks where fly line was pulled through it.
Finally, the next time you are out fishing, revel in how well your line strips,
casts and lifts from water’s grippy grip.