It is the third week in September and saltwater
trolling time for coho. Check retention regulations (link below) for your area
and get out there. In Victoria/Sooke waters, now that pink and sockeye are
through, most coho fishing will be found in the offshore tide lines of Juan de
Fuca Strait.
The wanton bite that happens when three
species are targeting the same feed is over, and the remainder is Puget Sound
and local stocks, largely on their own. In the distant past we fished the top 30
feet regardless of bottom depth, but in the past decade it’s best to think as
deep as 100 feet and adjust until you find the fish. Scan your depth sounder
for scratchy schools of bait and fish.
Fish by throttle, not speed over ground
as measured by your GPS. When you add tidal push to speed over ground you can
be fishing either too fast or too slow. Instead, increase your throttle speed
to 800- to 1000-rpm which results in your fishing faster than water speed. Ignore
your GPS speed.
Coho are the most excitable species of
salmon and will snap after something interesting at much higher speed. Because
they prefer higher speed that is the prime consideration. But higher speed is
also an advantage in that it allows you to fish more territory in the same
amount of time, thus increasing your chances of finding fish.
Tide lines are your best bet for several
reasons. Tide lines are spots where two different plumes of water moving in
opposite directions and at different speeds run into one another. They are evidenced
by dark, or even light lines and all the kelp weed and flotsam pushed into the
line is held there in the middle of the two lines. Tide lines are vertical
‘structure’ that extend down into the water because different currents exist
under the water surface too; and any on the surface, have to flow somewhere
after hitting one another and they can’t go up, so they go sideways or down.
A second reason is that plankton that
can’t swim faster than the tide gets swept into a tide line and held there as
long as it lasts. Ditto for bait fish that feed on them and also can’t swim
faster than the tide. The coho are keeping up with lunch and thus there, on the
moving side of the line, unless they are still staging, as does happen in Juan
de Fuca. With all the recent rain we have had, this is the cue, the taste of
water, for coho to stop staging and move on.
Another reason to fish tidelines is that
they give you a defined place to fish, rather than moseying all over the place
when you don’t find tidelines. This becomes self evident when you are out on a
calm day and there seems to be an infinity of water, but ‘nare’ a drop of fish.
Tide lines are one of the big three in fishing: being in the right place at the
right time using the right thing.
Tidelines give you the right place, so
stick with them. Fish back and forth across them if the moving side is not
producing. You will have to be checking line for eel grass and dodging kelp
which can be a major headache. But with your release clips set up properly, most
weed will not get past them to the flasher or lure. Use one five feet above two
stops under which the clip is attached, and then one stop below so the line
cannot migrate to the ball (this seldom happens and the more frequent issue is
the clip migrating up and moving the stops even higher, hence the reason for
two stops above the clip).
Using the right thing is your choice of
tackle. It used to be that red was the best colour, for example, that is why
the red Krippled K was the best lure. These days there are multiple colours and
multiple tackle that catches coho. The Madi, Lemon Lime, and Purple Onion, have
to be added to the Betsy and Super Betsy, particularly the ones that are
intended to give off an electric charge from electrolysis. Plaid will work or
the good old fashioned red Hotspot.
Leaders are longer, usually 34 to 40
inches – as speed has a relation with leader length. The faster the speed, the
longer the leader that will work. As for terminal tackle, spoons, hootchies and
squirts are your usual choices. We don’t fish with plugs much anymore, which I
think is related to having to debarb them. A Siwash hook used to be the best,
with its long sharp point for penetration, but the least useful without its
barb. Take the hook in a pair of pliers from point side to shank side and bend
it 20 degrees to kirb it.
A 232 red and gold Tomic plug used to be
a standard and I have found that old gear still works, if you are searching for
something, er, new. In hootchies and squirts, favour red, pink, white, and
clear combinations, Bubble Gum being one and the matching Yamashitas will also
work. Mint Tulip and Irish Mist are good squirts – for ones that are not a
pink/red combinations.
And these days the most interesting new
thing in tackle are the slim spoons that have taken over: Coho Killers, Sitkas,
and others. The plain silver, half silver and half brass and blue/ green
combos, as much as 42 inches behind a flasher. It seldom pays to use bait
because it is the most easily ruined lure and requires being lifted at least
every 20 minutes, so you are sure you are towing something a fish wants to
bite.
But the most important thing is being
there at the right time. Before a high tide and after a low are the fishy
hours. I am sure you can figure out how to get out on the water. Tell your wife/partner
you are bringing home dinner. Just be there.
This DFO link gives retention limits in
all saltwater areas of BC: http://www.pac.dfo-mpo.gc.ca/fm-gp/rec/areas-secteurs-eng.html.
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